A Wonder of the World

It is 4 a.m. Steve and Alex are asleep and I sit typing in the dark. It is amazing that thhe body can refuse to sleep, even at the point of complete exhaustion.

Yesterday morning we left the hotel at 8:30. The sky was blue – not a cloud. A beautiful day. Our destination was the Great Wall, about an hour and 15 minute drive along a highway thick with more traffic than anyone has ever seen. We crawled along at a snail’s pace for at least 30 minutes. Horns beeping. Trucks coming in from the left and the right. But the time gave us a chance to truly see the amazing amount of construction in this very modern city. All along the highway, the old buildings are coming down. Teams of workers stand with shovels and pick axes – working slowly and diligently. At each site, there is perhaps one small piece of construction equipment. The rest is done by hand. We saw small parks along the road. Older people were out, practicing Tai Chi and walking slowly, or stood gathered around in groups chatting in the morning sun. Bicycles piled high with bundles went by. A small truck filled with pigs. The old and new occupying the same space in and way that seems almost to define Beijing.

Finally, we broke free of the traffic and headed to the outskirts of the city. Mountains began to rise, distant and beautiful, covered in a foggy haze (which we all knew was smog, but they were breathtaking nevertheless). Beijing was chosen as the capitol city by many emperors because of its fenh shui. It is surrounded by mountains on three sides, like a chair, and has fast moving water.

As we approached the Great Wall, the mountains began to loom. Beautiful pagodas dotted the landscape. We began the climb at the base of the wall, next to a stone tablet with a quote from Mao stating that all who come to the Wall are heroes. We began to climb a staircase that leads up the mountain, seemingly forever, and were amazed as Alex transformed himself into a hero. We knew Steve would make it to the top. We didn’t expect it from Alex. I looked at the stairs and decided that he and I would probably make it to the first resting spot and stop. I was wrong. He climbed and climbed. The Chinese people smiling, encouraging and giving him the thumbs up, clearly as surprised to see a little boy so determined to make it. The Wall is an unbelievable feat of mankind. The stone stairs are thick and heavy, worn in spots from centuries of feet climbing and descending. To the left, a thick stonework wall with small opening for looking out or shooting arrows. To the right, a lower wall looks out over the land encompassing Beijing. Alex climbed the entire stretch – looking back and commenting on how the building and cars below looked like toys, and that the Chinese people must be sad that there are no more emperors. We met Steve on his way back down and we all climbed together to the top before beginning the next challenge – climbing back down. The stairs are uneven. Some so thick it is like taking two steps at a time. Others thing – more like half a step. In some spots, the stones are so worn by the weight of the centuries that they slant downward where the foot falls. Others have crumbled a tiny bit. It was a challenge and by the time we got to the bottom, about 30 minutes later, I think all of our legs were trembling. But, not Alex’s (he said). He felt strong. Not weak. He had climbed The Great Wall.

Another word about Alex. He is attracting Hollywood like attention, I think because of his light hair and blue eyes. It first happened at the Great Wall. He and I had stopped for a rest as a group of teenage girls came down the stairs. They surrounded us, picked him up, hugged him and started taking his picture. Each wanted a picture with him. A few steps up, another woman took out her camera and took his picture. Later, at the Ming tombs, we were standing under some trees when a group of women spotted him. One came over, and within seconds, twenty women surrounded us, touching his face, touching his hands, chiding me (in Chinese) for not having a coat on him. Telling me he was too cold. Alex just sat there. Their manner is so gentle and friendly, that he seemed surprised, but unalarmed.

We have met up with four other wonderful families from Homeland and in between sites and stops and food, the talk is all about the babies. Who they are. What they will be called. How long everyone has waited. Underlying the thrill of visiting these beautiful sites, of tables of food piled high with food, is a jittery energy and a desire just to sleep and get to Nanjing because it is the babies we are really here to see. It is a strange feeling to visit a country that is already so much a part of your heart, on the brink of its history becoming forever intertwined with your own family history.

More later!! And pictures!